RSS Feed

November, 2013

  1. Zero G

    November 20, 2013 by Ford

    Best birthday present ever!

    Explorers Club

    Category Uncategorized | Tags: | No Comments

  2. Antarctica

    November 20, 2013 by Ford

    On the short list
    G adventures recommended

    Category Uncategorized | Tags: | No Comments

  3. Vancouver

    November 20, 2013 by Ford

    Sun Sui wah amazing seafood and unbelievable squab

    Category Uncategorized | Tags: | No Comments

  4. Uganda & The Great Apes

    November 19, 2013 by Ford

    Worth the effort? YES!!! An absolute bucket list item!

    When to go: Summer (June-Sep) and Winter (Dec-Feb) are dry seasons though the gorillas are there all year round if you don’t mind getting wet :)

    Where to stay: Nkuringo Gorilla Camp  (Lovely rooms, delicious food, super nature friendly but lack of private bathrooms is not for everyone)

    Transport: Easy 1 hour flight from Nairobi. Do NOT drive in Uganda unless you are a native of Delhi or Rome. There are no rules on the road. Hire a tour group or private guide.  Able Safaris is a decent mid level option. We were not thrilled but they made a good effort and got the job done.

    Cost: $$$ Driver, Permits, Hotels, Flights from Nairobi etc. altogether will run you $2-3k easily.

    Time: If you can’t or don’t want to fly to Bwindi from Entebbe you will need at least 5 days for the long drives.  (more…)

    Category Africa | Tags: | No Comments

  5. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania – Taco Jumbo

    November 19, 2013 by Ford

    Worth the effort? YES! Bucket list! And go soon because once the glaciers melt there will be no more water which means no more hiking.

     When to go: Summer (June-Sep) and Winter (Dec-Feb) are dry season.

    Getting there: Local air hub is Nairobi, Kenya. From there fly or bus over the border to Arusha, Tanzania. From there, since you have to have a guide to climb Kili, your guide will pick you up.

    Time: Take the longest route you can. The more time you have to acclimatize the better. At least 12 days with international travel is necessary.

    Where to stay: It’s all camping on the mountain so choose a guide guide company. Mountain Madness is hands down all time winner.

    Transport: Your guides will take care of you

    Cost: $$$$ Do NOT cheap it on the guide company! What seem like frivolous luxuries at sea level can be life saving at altitude. Wait an extra year or two and save up for the good guys.

    Wisdoms: The path less traveled is absolutely the way to go here. Don’t get stuck in the zombi crowds.

    Packing: Serious endeavor for this trip. Refer to our trekking packing list.

    For the next time: Don’t think I’m gonna do this one again. On to the next mountain!

    “You want to go where?!”

    I’m not entirely sure what inspired us to climb Kilimanjaro. As many of the mountaineering books I’ve read over the years often quote, it was there, and so I wanted to stand on top of it. Arthur and I had trekked around Annapurna in Nepal earlier in the year and were thrilled with the experience so when our friends invited us to join them on safari in East Africa, climbing Kili seemed like a must.

    After much deliberation I chose Mountain Madness as our guides and it was one of the best travel decisions ever made. The guides and porters were amazing every step of the way but we truly realized how lucky we are was at the top of Kili as we started our descent. We came up the Lomosho approach through the Shira Plateau and the Western Breach and camped INSIDE THE CRATER that is Kili (which was a giant volcano back in it’s day) before our final ascent of the summit in the morning. The other popular routes go up a different side of the mountain like the Marangu (also known as the Coca Cola route due to it’s popularity with inexperienced western muppets) and Mweka (which was the route we took down)  are much quicker, climbers don’t have time to acclimatize which results in about a 40% summit rate. Most people turn around a few hundred meters from summit. Some get very sick and a few die on the way down each year. On the Lomosho/Shira route with Mountain Madness the success rate is 90% and, having been there, I can see why. But let’s start at the start.

    Popular Routes up Kilimanjaro

    Kilimanjaro is located in Tanzania, East Africa near the town of Arusha and the easiest way to get there is via Nairobi, Kenya. You can fly or bus it from Nairobi to Arusha (we did both on our trip and the buses are fine). Kili is a fascinating place because it is the biggest freestanding mountain in the world. It formed as a volcano back in the day as opposed to being squished by plate tectonics which is how the tallest mountains in Asia, Europe and the Americas formed. Because of this, it stands alone, with only one other large mountain nearby and when you stand on top, you really do feel like the world is your oyster.

    You can’t legally climb Kili yourself so once we arrived in Arusha we were picked up by Cobra, our guide for the next 9 days. The next day, after an acclimatization night at the Itikoni tented camp at 2k meters we met, what can be best described as, our army of porters. We counted a few times and didn’t come close to meeting all of them but our best estimate was that it took about 57 porters, guides, drivers, cooks and other support staff to get our 7 weak american butts up the mountain. It seemed ridiculous at first but we quickly grew to love the relatively luxury of the whole affair.

    The Climb

     

    After our night in the crater our final ascent was less than two hours, unlike most people who get up at midnight and hike the whole night for 7 -10 hours in the dark to get to the top. The summit was breathtaking. Sun rising over the horizon, all of Africa in the palm of my hand, a view down into the planes where I could see the shadow of Kili, yes, the shadow of an entire mountain reflected down from the rising sun, the remains of the magnificent glaciers down below… it was all just spectacular.

    As I felt the altitude sickness finally worming it’s way to the surface and started my way down, I  came face to face those same old poor souls who took the “short easy routes” attempting to trudge their way up. What I saw over the next 2 hours could be best described as the “walk of the living dead.” I watched as literally dozens of people collapsed on the ground. Saw many people being dragged by their careless porters up to a summit they have no chance of enjoying in their zombi state. Saw even more people give up and turn around so close, just minutes from the top. Statistically at least a few these people will suffer serious cerebral and pulmonary issues on the way down and a handful will die as do every year. All because they wanted to save a few bucks on their guides.

    A few bits of wisdom for the next guy. First and foremost, TAKE THE DIAMOX! Unless you have been above 4k meters before and are superhuman and know altitude doesn’t affect you, take the damn pills. Those who don’t just make the trip suckier for everyone around them and then end up taking them anyway. You ascend way faster than your body can handle and a few extra trips to the bathroom and some finger tingling won’t kill you.

    Secondly pick your route and your guide company with great care. Pick the longest route you can and if at all possible

    Category Africa | Tags: | No Comments

  6. Kenya & Tanzania Safari – Soft Kitty

    November 19, 2013 by Ford

    My first word of advice to those considering safari in east Africa is that you have to go to both Kenya and Tanzania to really get the full picture.

    Nakuru
    Rhinos

    Masai Mara in Kenya
    Balloon ride

    Serengeti

    Make sure you get the right vehicle.

    Get up early and be out of your hotel before the sun goes up so you are in the middle of the action for sunrise. This is both when the predators (read big kitties) are most active and when the light is most perfect for taking that kill shot photo you have been dreaming off. After a few hours you can go back to your lodge for lunch and a nap because it’s going to get hot and dusty and the animals will be sleeping and hiding. Come back out on the road around 2-3 and stay as late as possible even past sunset if you can talk your driver into it. At sunsets the big cats wake up again and the light is surreal.

    Make sure to bring the right camera lens and binoculars.

    We booked with African Sermon Safaris who were an excellent budget options.
    If you can afford to go all out luxury, I suggest you go with a small boutique outfit rather than the large behemoths. The popular ones didn’t look so great. The guide is really key.

    Category Africa | Tags: ,, | No Comments

  7. Madagascar or The Idiot’s Guide To Getting Bit By A Lemur

    November 19, 2013 by Ford

    Madagascar is a huge island off the eastern coast of Africa and is probably pissed it doesn’t count as it’s own continent like Australia. Thanks to its remote location and the fact that westerners haven’t’ found anything they need to steal from Madagascar quite yet, it is even now in 2013 quite untouched by foreigners.

    The capital of Madagascar is Antananarivo or just Tana and it is not easy to get to. Easiest way I found, other than air Madagascar, was to fly through the nearby island of Mauritius on Air Mauritius or from Nairobi on Kenya Air.

    Exotic Madagascar Park is kind of like a zoo but for local animals. The lemurs roam free but can be coaxed
    Also , we had lunch here and found that they make a surprisingly good steak so we recommend it.

    Next stop

    Feon’ny Ala is the craphole we stayed at while visiting Andasibe.
    Vakona (the name of a giant eucalyptus like plant that grows all over the forest) lodge is the top local lodging option but it books up early so plan ahead. On the grounds is Lemur Island which is a must visit. Seeing the lemurs from a distance, in the trees in their natural habitat is really cool. Having

    Night walk
    There are many beautiful things to see and do but unfortunately we only had five days on the island which left us with limited options. The roads are terrible and the traffic is worse so getting just about anywhere takes about 4 times longer than you would expect just by looking at google maps.

    Mantadia national park.

    Nestor

    Ampefy Geiser Kavita hotel
    We spent far too little time in Madagascar and when we inevitably return we look forward to the following:
    Rafting down the river with Remote Rivers
    Explore the west coast, the main city M… stingy forest and baobab avenue
    Explore the north of the island, go whale watching and visit noisy be

    Category Africa | Tags: | No Comments

  8. Rosanjin: Fancy, Classy, [could be] Tasty[er] Sushi

    November 16, 2013 by Arthur

    New York’s one Michelin star sushi (Kyoto style Kaiseki to be exact) classic Rosanjin is fairly tasty but far from impressive. The food is decent. It definitely lacks the creativity and even quality of some of its Michelin started sushi brethren like Soto. The restaurant’s decor, exceptional service, perfect presentation and amazing Sake and Umeshu pairing make up for anything it lacks in food quality and definitely carry it to the one star rating. The restaurant probably shouldn’t hold its breath for that second star though.

    Looks like an awesome date place though.

    Category Restaurants | Tags: , | No Comments

  9. Tiny Fork

    November 16, 2013 by Arthur

    Not impressed by any of the food.
    Nice vibe.
    Pretty good oysters.
    Worth it for drinks and $1 oysters during happy hour. That’s about it.

    Category Restaurants | Tags: , | No Comments

  10. ME Hotel London – Nice but not all about me

    November 13, 2013 by Arthur

    ME Hotel London on Aldwych in the west end has an excellent location whether you’re in town on a leisurely visit or there for business. The area itself seems a little touristy given that you have theaters with glitzy musical signage all around you but this is London, not New York, so in all reality the place is still very quiet in the evenings and on a Sunday night is downright dead.

    The hotel is just a few months old and is situated in a post modern building which, my cabbie claimed, formerly housed the BBC. The decor inside is kitschy-splashy-modern but stylishly done. The rooms are tastefully designed and appointed. It looks nice. I chose it based on the pictures and I was not disappointed. The staff is fairly friendly, especially by London standards.

    The hotel sports an Italian restaurant, STK (of New York’s Meatpacking district fame) and an upstairs rooftop bar with a killer view of the Thames and the city skyline. Between STK and the rooftop bar, the place can get quite popping on the right night. That being said, unlike its New York counterpart, STK can’t make a short rib worth a shit. The menu said “72-hour Braised Short Rib.” Generally I assume that means that the short rib has been braised for 72 hours but in all honestly I didn’t ask for clarification, so the fault must be mine. Maybe they just mean its 72 hours since it was cooked. Any short rib worth a damn (especially one cooked for that long or  even for a tenth of that time) should fall off the bone and never really require a knife for anything but the image of civility. To my great dismay I had to be far less than civil with the piece of subpar brisket that was served to me for my $32.

    Ok. So whats the issue with the hotel? The issue is that people don’t really think or don’t really care. The ME is considered a 5-star hotel. Despite the great decor, location, etc. I wouldn’t give it more than 4. A 5-star hotel must adhere to a completely different level of service. It must rise to a standard of excellence in service where every last detail has been thought through and taken care of.

    I drop and give myself 50 in the morning. Somewhere on pushup number 3 I notice the scent emanating from the room’s carpet. For god’s sake people, the hotel has only been open for a couple of months. There is no excuse to say its absorbed years and years of wear, tare and bodily fluids. Washed the damn carpets.

    I’m not a body wash sort of guy. I take the little hand soap they give you and use it in the shower. It disappears pretty fast. No worries, I’m sure housekeeping will get a chance to do the room before I get back in the evening. Evening: No Soap. Next Evening: No soap. Next Evening: I call, “Please bring me some soap.” If soap was part of the accessories provided with the room, there is no reason I should ever be missing a bar of soap from my room. But hey, everyone makes mistakes. In all honesty even my favorite 5-star hotels (the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur) can get things wrong or miss something. Its all about consistency, thoughtfulness and how the issue is remedied.

    I buy some Gu chocolate pudding on the way home. I love that stuff and you can’t get it anywhere else. I grab a spoon and a saucer from one of the two teacup sets in the room. I eat the Gu, leave the dirty spoon and saucer on the table and head out in the morning. When I come back in the evening, the room is clean, the dirty spoon and saucer are gone. But now I have just one spoon and saucer left. I proceed to use the second and last spoon and saucer with my second cup of Gu, slightly worried as to what will happen the following day. Surprisingly they replace the spoon and saucer but even more surprisingly they only replace one. So now on my cupboard stands one cup on a saucer with a spoon on it and one lonely cup, wondering what the hell happened to its little friends and why its neighbor got its spoon and saucer back but it didn’t and what wrong with it, how is it worse than the other guy, doesn’t it deserve a saucer and spoon… A cup can easily develop an inferiority complex like that. Frankly, so can a person. What if I had someone up to my room and I had to serve tea? Go saucer-less? Really?

    You won’t be surprised to know that my shower cap (yes I used the shower cap – long hair) was not replaced either and being in a hurry the following morning with no time to wait for them to bring in another, I had to contort myself to all sorts of back-wrenching angles to keep my hair from getting wet in the room’s beautiful (but limiting from a direction of water flow standpoint) rain shower.

    And now here is the clincher. I send out some shirts to be laundered. They are supposed to be done the following morning. The morning comes and as I enjoy the tranquility of sleeping in late on a Saturday morning in an attempt to catch up on sleep after my flight and dream away the jet lag… the phone starts ringing its head off not 12 inches from mine. “Sir, this is Stephane from downstairs. One of our guys is in front of your room with your shirts. There is a Do Not Disturb sign on your door and he didn’t want to knock.” Really? Are you fucking kidding me? The kid who runs around with the shirts was bright enough to figure out that the big red Do Not Disturb sign probably meant I didn’t want to be disturbed with a knock but you…. you whom they put in front of a desk, don’t have the brains to figure out that calling me inside my room might just qualify as Disturbing? “Huh? What? Oh yes. Just a second.” I say, as I reluctantly rise from the bed so I might go out of my way to offer the highest quality of service to the young man holding shirts outside my hotel room door and not keep him waiting. I know this a wild idea, but maybe, just maybe, a note slipped under my door would have sufficed. Maybe something along the lines of: “Sir, We sincerely hope you are enjoying your Saturday morning. Your shirts are clean, pressed and ready. As you did not wish to be disturbed, they are being held for you downstairs. Should you wish to pick them up yourself, you may do so at reception, otherwise please ring XXXX at any time and we would be happy to have them brought up to your room right away. –Regards, Stephanie” Or even “Shirts ready. Call XXXX.”

    None of these things are horrible. The hotel is fine. While they are new, you can get occasional discounts. Thus I would recommend it to a friend and stay there again. But lets not lie to our customers and ourselves and call it a 5-star hotel. If the prices were higher, I’d say you can get better “5-star” service elsewhere, even in London.

    Category Uncategorized | Tags: , | No Comments